Seams To Be Fashionable is a site created by Rebel Thread, that has been designed to help you answer the question "what did they wear in the civil war era?" They say that a picture is worth a thousand words, and each month on this site you will find that to be very true. Here you will find a discussion of fashion from the source of the time, Godey's Lady's Magazine. The ChitChat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions discusses the latest styles, the fabrics, the trims, the bonnets and all the main components of a fashionable woman's dress. It was the source upon which women of the era based their wardrobes. It was the voice of what 'seamed' to be fashionable.
Again this month is the next installment of "BLUNDERS IN BEHAVIOUR CORRECTED. CODE OF DEPORTMENT FOR BOTH SEXES." This discussion appeared regularly in the Godey's Lady's Magazine, and it is a peek into the social deportment of 1860. It helps to shed some light on the social expectations, speech and behavior of the times, and while we might find it amusing by current standards, it will give you insight into the expected social behavior of 1860.In "Bits and Pieces" this month there is an interesting snip on the benefits of bathing, but apparently not too often!
Sit back, relax and be prepared to be inspired!
Shela Simpson, Rebel Thread
DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION-PLATE FOR MAY.
Fig. 1 - Dress of light summer silk, the body heart-shaped; the plaits crossing ever are to meet the three which are laid at the left side of the skirt. A belt of rose des Alpes ribbon is fastened at the side with a small rosette, which is formed of a ribbon about one inch in width, drawn round a button covered with the same as the rosette; this style of trimming is continued down the side of the skirt. The waist of the dress is low, and an inside corsage must be worn with it, finished at the neck by a collar. Sleeves full, and confined at the wrist by a band. The bonnet is of white silk trimmed with a fall of black lace and pink roses.
Fig . 2 - Rich walking silk; Pompadour waist, pointed behind and before; bows on the front of corsage. Black lace mantle, and a rice straw bonnet trimmed with mauve ribbon and a sheaf of wheat mixed with mauve flowers.
Fig. 3 - Dress of white tarletane, with three bunches of small puffs, graduated in number, with small ribbon bows sprinkled over the puffs; body plain, with a puffed berthe; shoulder bows; corsage bow and sash of green ribbon. The headdress is formed of loops of narrow green velvet. This dress is suitable for a watering-place.
Fig. 4 - Dress of white and mauve grenadine; bows down the front of corsage, and down every seam of the skirt. Bonnet of white crape, trimmed with mauve.
Child's dress - White pique, embroidered; full waist and puff sleeve; round the neck of the dress is a quilling of narrow green ribbon. A broad sash is tied at the side of the child, and a green ribbon is placed round the head, passing under the hair at the side, and fastening at the back with a bow and ends.
Publication: Godey's Lady's Book Date: May, 1860
CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS, FOR MAY.
DURING the mild weather, a few new bonnets have made their appearance, and are marked by a decided increase of brim. The most conspicuous are the fine split straws, trimmed with wide black ribbon laid slanting and surmounted by bunches of field flowers, the wheat ears predominating. Drawn bonnets, made of silk, with full cap crowns, still maintain their sway; but others are seen in square crowns, of crape, covered with figured or spotted lace. This last mentioned article will be much used for dress bonnets in the coming summer. The English split chip will be adopted for young ladies, trimmed simply, and distinguished by the novelty of the inside trimmings of blonde ribbon and flowers, which give a fanciful and tasteful expression. Small chequed silk will be preferred for travelling bonnets, with the brim of colored straw, and trimming of same material, as they are useful and becoming.
The latest styles project very far from the face, though not in a point, and stand very high from the head. We have seen a number of crape bonnets trimmed with velvet which were very effective. Frosted or pressed crape will be a favorite material, and most of the trimmings will be mixed with straw. Wheat, oats, or small sheaves of either or both mingled with field or other flowers we think will be the prevailing fashion, though particularly suited for straw bonnets; poppies of every size and color are to be had and will be much worn.
The favorite colors in trimming bonnets are violet of the Alps, fleur de peche, and mauve, a rich shade of lilac.
Among the new straw trimming, we notice large, flat rosettes, made of a glossy straw resembling narrow satin ribbon; these are placed at the side of a bonnet, and, for travelling, are exceedingly pretty.
The straw hats and bonnets for ladies and children are of white, black, gray, and mixed black and white; the styles are new and of great variety.
The newest headdresses we have seen consist of four rosettes made of a ribbon of about an inch in width, box plaited and sewed on a piece of net to form a very full rosette; two smaller rosettes go under the coil of hair, and two larger ones at the sides of the head; they are made of two colored ribbons, two rosettes being of one color and two of another. Many have a band of ribbon about half an inch wide attached to the rosettes, going round the head and on one side; about an inch from the middle part is placed a bow of ribbon.
Sashes will be much worn with summer-dresses, and a new style has been introduced; a narrow ribbon comes for the waist, and for the rest is a rich wide ribbon, plain, except at the ends, which are rounded, and have embossed on them a rich spray of flowers. Ribbons with little sprigs over them are the latest, and the most desirable have, on a black ground, sprigs of wheat or oats in gold-color.
At the stores of Messrs. T.W. Evans & Co. and L.J. Levy & Co. of Philadelphia, and Messrs. A.T. Stewart & Co. of New York, there can be found an elegant and varied style of dress goods to meet the wants and taste of the most fastidious. Foremost will be noticed the chinee robes, marked by the change of the great number of flounces from last year; they vary from six to eleven. Printed organdies, with trimmings like the above, rival the grenadines, which have had the ascendency, for their delicacy of color, design, and texture; also the new and beautiful article for travelling-dresses, a summer poplin, composed of linen and worsted, in chinee designs, either chequed or in stripes. Plain colored taffetas, with multiplied flounces pinked, seems to be the promenade and visiting-dress. Printed pique, better known as Marseilles, worn in Paris for the last two years, is new in esteem for morning-dresses, with long basques. They take the place of lawns, and require no lining for the waist, as they are of heavy texture. Another promenade-dress is the barege Anglais, with mantle to match, distinguished for usefulness; this has also many flounces.
There is no material change in the make of dresses since the autumn, except the introduction of gored dresses; consequently, the skeleton skirt has been obliged to take the form of an umbrella, and helps to show the width of a skirt that measures from eight to ten yards wide. Tight sleeves are worn with this new dress, but many people prefer the Oriental, or Huguenot, with its deep cuff trimmed in buttons.
Black lace points and mantillas are to be used for the summer covering, when the heat will compel the ladies to lay aside the long and very ample black silk mantle, that is made in a variety of shapes.
The colors of the season for dresses are more sober, and a plainer taste has certainly taken the place of the flashy character that has been so conspicuous of late years.
